Steve J & Yoni P，2016春/夏系列图片来源：Suzy Menkes Instagram不分性别的齐小腿长度毛衫、亮色衬衫、超轻质的大衣、宽松款裤装以及男女两性方面都同样大胆现代的数码印花：这些就是我此行从韩国获得的时装印象。“中性化”风潮正在真实上演。在这次首尔时装周的秀台上走下的各色服装都并没有传达出激进的信息，这次时装周的秀场选在Zaha Hadid设计的“登月风”东大门设计广场，许多设计师都以男装闻名，但此次也展示了不俗的女装系列，同样女装设计师也展现出跨性别的设计能力。从美学角度讲，将性别之间的界限模糊化的尝试旧已有之。回溯1980年代，雌雄同体已经作为一个社会主流宣言而大放异彩，女孩子们纷纷身穿肩部宽大的男士夹克衫大步流星走上街，身体力行去冲破这个社会对女性施加歧视的“玻璃天花板”。但这次首尔时装周传达这一信息的方式则相对温和得多。Steve J & Yoni P，2016春/夏系列图片来源：Suzy Menkes Instagram“我们告诉买手，我们会为男女两性顾客提供一样的服装，但我们并不需要为此向客户解释什么：他们都明白。”Steve J如是说，他与搭档Yoni P刚刚在首尔人头攒动的闹市区开了一家精品店。他们选择不在官方秀场展示他们的街头风格，而是直接把秀场搬到了真正的街头。他们选择的地点都是外墙上贴着涂鸦海报的酷炫场所，而他们这种酷酷的态度使其成为了韩流明星的首选。设计师双人组对于跨界穿衣的想象落实在将男女两性的彩色格子布混搭使用，同时将如棉布的轻盈面料用于男性大衣或女性裙装的做饭，将这两性的特质融合起来。Steve J & Yoni P，2016春/夏系列图片来源：Suzy Menkes Instagram但与这两位设计师不同，你无需从英国的时装院校毕业，也能感觉到空气中弥漫的变化气息。当我在首尔的Beaker这样一家支持年轻品牌的精品店的其中一家分店采访时，我见到了一群朝气蓬勃的年轻设计师，其中几位用轻松的口吻谈到了面向两性顾客提供服装：Beaker副总裁Soon-Kyung Ryu也承认这正是目前首尔时装界的趋势。Suzy Menkes与韩国青年设计师在首尔的精品店Beaker图片来源：Suzy Menkes InstagramStereo Vinyls印着米老鼠或辛普森家庭图案的中性卫衣是男/女着装中较易为人接受的一种文化。而Nohant设计师Noah Nam则向我展示了他认为非常中性的或短款或长及小腿的针织衫。Noah还为之作出了另一种定义：“早午餐服装”，表明了这种时髦又休闲的假日服装风潮已经在全球范围蔓延开来，中性化的时尚现象亦然。作为一名外来者，我能感觉到一些亚洲独有的中性时装元素，同时在这里，男人和女人一样热衷于时装。我还和首尔最成功的设计师之一Woo Youngmi进行了交谈，她的品牌Wooyoungmi已经两度登陆巴黎男装季，并在全球范围售卖。“我认为韩国男性对于军队时尚的态度比较开放，”在这里设计师指的是美军在首尔基地的长期驻扎所造成的影响，以及卡其、迷彩以及军装剪裁在韩国男装领域的流行地位。Suzy Menkes造访Woo Youngmi与KatieChung位于首尔的工作室该品牌的创意总监Katie Chung想得更远一些。“从体型上说，亚洲人的男女两性之间的差异并没有那么大，”她如此强调两性之间的轻微廓形差距，这一点在首尔时装周的秀场上也不难发现。Suzy Menkes在首尔时装周上和首尔市长Park Won-Soon合影图片来源：Suzy Menkes Instagram但我相信，由于态度上的转变，中性化服饰正在被越来越多的领域所接受。也许因为有着长达35年的日据历史，对于中性化服饰向着新方向发展而言，韩国会是一片理想的土壤。D.GNAK：硬朗与柔和秀台尽头，饶舌歌手正在随着音乐即兴说唱，营造出一派激进前卫的氛围，模特在这种氛围下大步走出，大部分身着黑衣，要么把头发削得极短要么把发型掩藏在兜帽或帽檐底下。服装的廓形都是超大号、方形剪裁、稍有进攻性，在纽约闹市区看到也丝毫不觉违和。D.GNAK 2016春/夏系列图片来源：Suzy Menkes Instagram但随后设计师Kang Dong-Jun转换了音乐风格。换上来的音乐风格阴郁肃穆，甚至有很浓的佛教气质，服装的剪裁也随之精致冷静起来，或在夹克背面设计着圆形装饰物，或将更多的戏剧性赋予薄纱般的透明上装。D.GNAK 2016春/夏系列图片来源：Suzy Menkes Instagram随着用色转为典雅的蓝紫色，仿佛设计师有什么故事要说。尽管这些全部在翻译过程中“迷失首尔”了，但仍不妨碍这些服装看起来很有型。D.GNAK 2016春/夏系列图片来源：Suzy Menkes InstagramRESURRECTION：男装抢尽风头在Resurrection的秀场上，设计师Juyoung Lee献上了与男装同样有力的女装。白色在这场秀上给人留下了极深刻的印象，伴随着其阴暗的一面。但同此次首尔时装周上的许多品牌一样，该品牌的女装尽管鲜活惹眼，但依旧成为了男装的配角。Resurrection，2016春/夏系列图片来源：Suzy Menkes Instagram“意图明确”一词盘旋在我的脑海，Resurrection模特们的衣着既硬朗又带着街头智慧，但这份气质总是融化在轻盈通透甚至是完全透明的面料之中。Resurrection，2016春/夏系列图片来源：Suzy Menkes Instagram这场秀是跨性别设计的一个绝佳范例，但最好的单品都在男装中。BLINDNESS：大尺码双性风Blindness设计师Shin KyuYong带来的帽衫和宽松、流线型设计呈现出一种自信的街头风格，但仍大有可为。Blindness，2016春/夏系列图片来源：Suzy Menkes Instagram窄身牛仔布单品与超大号衬衫的搭配算是这个年轻的男装品牌在我们眼前玩了一场关于比例的游戏。设计师此次在首尔时装周专为年轻人才准备的场地献上了他的2016春/夏系列。Blindness，2016春/夏系列图片来源：Suzy Menkes Instagram以大号字体印在服装上的“公民自由”（Civil Liberty）是街头风尚的宣言，这其中包括了帽衫、能遮住手的超大号衬衫袖口以及对牛仔布的明智使用。这些元素都赋予了Blindness的新系列以一股运动的能量。KYE：蛇与火花对于Kye来说，今年难道是蛇年？在其本季时装周上展示的2016春/夏系列中，以蛇为主题的中性印花与图案比比皆是。Kye，2016春/夏系列图片来源：Suzy Menkes Instagram女装设计中包含的闪亮金箔元素与更加有侵略性的效果形成鲜明对比。蛇类图案大多运用在男装中，而Kye的这一系列通过一种都市气息和酷劲十足的方式展现出男女两性之间的微妙差异。由于韩国的现代书法非常发达，我觉得在Kye此次的系列中见到装饰性的书法设计是非常棒的：让充满了态度的模特穿着，即便是在运动卫衣上装点着“hate”这个词也会加剧这种犀利的气质。Kye，2016春/夏系列图片来源：Suzy Menkes Instagram但不论Kathleen Kye的宣言如何，她认为每个人“对于朋友都是爱恨交织”的前提却没有反映在这些时髦的服装中——男女装皆是如此。Steve J & Yoni P, Spring/Summer 2016Picture credit: Suzy Menkes InstagramCalf-length sweaters worn by both sexes, light shirts, airy coats, loose trousers and the same bold, digital prints for men or women - these are the fashion images I am taking away from South Korea."Gender neutral" is the real story. There is no suggestion that the clothes coming down the runway in Seoul, at the "moon-landing" DDP building designed by Zaha Hadid, are sent out as a provocative statement. Many of the shows seem to be from designers known for their menswear, who offer a handful of outfits for women, or occasionally vice versa.Aesthetically, blurring those gender lines has been going on for decades. Back in the 1980s, androgyny was a major statement as women stomped out in big-shouldered, mannish jackets to break society's anti-female glass ceilings. But the Seoul Fashion Week offerings were more likely to be gentle unions.Steve J & Yoni P, Spring/Summer 2016Picture credit: Suzy Menkes Instagram"We tell the buyers that we have the same clothes for men and women, but we don't have to explain that to our customers - they get it," said Steve J, who with his partner Yoni P has just opened a boutique in lively downtown Seoul.They chose to stage their street style not in the official show space, but literally on the street, with graffiti posters attached to outside walls and the cool attitude that makes them favourites of the K-Pop stars.Mixes of the same gingham checks for male and female were the duo's version of cross-dressing, while the use of cotton as a light fabric for a male coat or a feminine dress brought the two sexes together.Steve J & Yoni P, Spring/Summer 2016Picture credit: Suzy Menkes InstagramBut, unlike that couple, you don't have to be trained at fashion colleges in London to feel the change in the air.When I visited a group of young designers at a branch of Beaker, a Seoul store that supports upcoming brands, several of them spoke casually about selling to both sexes - a trend confirmed by Soon-Kyung Ryu, the store's Vice President.?Suzy Menkes with young Korean designers at the Beaker boutique in SeoulPicture credit: Suzy Menkes InstagramUnisex sweaters from Stereo Vinyls with allusions to Mickey Mouse or The Simpsons are the easy-to-grasp, established culture of man/woman dressing. While Noah Nam, the designer behind Nohant, showed me short or calf-length knits that he said were gender neutral. Noah also came up with another definition: "brunch clothes", suggesting that smart-casual Sunday clothes have become a worldwide - and unisex - fashion phenomenon.As an outsider, I felt that there was an Asia-specific element to clothes being appropriate to both sexes and men being fashion followers as much as women.I talked to Woo Youngmi, who is one of Korea's most successful designers, shows her Wooyoungmi brand twice a year in the Paris menswear season and sells globally.?"I think that Korean men were really opened up to fashion by the army," said the designer, referring to the long-established American army base in Seoul and the way that khaki, camouflage and military tailoring are endemic to Korean male style.Suzy Menkes with Woo Youngmi and Katie Chung, on a studio visit in SeoulThe brand's creative director, Katie Chung, had further thoughts. "In terms of body shape, for Asians there is not a significant gender divide," she said, underscoring the slight silhouettes of both sexes - as seen in Seoul Fashion Week's runway shows.Suzy Menkes with the Mayor of Seoul, Park Won-Soon, at Seoul Fashion WeekPicture credit: Suzy Menkes InstagramBut I believe that gender neutral clothes are being accepted in so many different arenas because of a profound change in attitude. Maybe Korea, with its history interrupted by Japanese colonial rule for 35 years, has been the ideal culture on which to draw men and women's wardrobes in a new way.D.GNAK: HARD AND SOFTThe rappers, blasting out words and music live at the end of the runway, created an edgy, aggressive mood as models strode out, mostly in black, either shaven-headed or hidden under a hoodie or cap. The clothes were oversize, square cut, slightly aggressive and could have been found in downtown New York.D.GNAK Spring/Summer 2016Picture credit: Suzy Menkes InstagramBut then designer?Kang Dong-Jun changed the music - literally. His new musician was plaintive and almost Buddhist, the clothes either finely and calmly tailored, or with more insertions of circular embellishment on the back of a jacket, or more dramatically on a gauzy, transparent top.?D.GNAK Spring/Summer 2016Picture credit: Suzy Menkes InstagramAs the colour switched to a royal purple, it was as though the designer had a story to tell. Even if it was lost in translation, the clothes remained stylish.D.GNAK Spring/Summer 2016Picture credit: Suzy Menkes InstagramRESURRECTION: MEN STEAL THE SHOWAt Resurrection, designer Juyoung Lee gave a powerful push for strong women as well as men.White - but with a dark side - gave a striking image to the show. But this was?one of the many brands at Seoul Fashion Week when feisty womenswear still played second fiddle to menswear.Resurrection, Spring/Summer 2016Picture credit: Suzy Menkes Instagram"Purposeful" was the word that sprang to mind as the Resurrection models strode out in clothes that were tough and streetwise but often melted into light, airy and even transparent fabrics.Resurrection, Spring/Summer 2016Picture credit: Suzy Menkes InstagramIt was a good example of gender crossing. But the men got all the best pieces.BLINDNESS: OVERSIZE ANDROGYNY?Hoodies and loose, streamlined shapes from Shin Kyu Yong of Blindness made for a confident street style that could have been pushed further to the edge.Blindness, Spring/Summer 2016Picture credit: Suzy Menkes InstagramNarrow denim pieces competed with oversize shirts to show the game of proportions played by this young menswear label. He showed the spring/summer 2016 collection of his Blindness brand at Seoul Fashion Week in a space dedicated to young talent.Blindness, Spring/Summer 2016Picture credit: Suzy Menkes Instagram"Civil Liberty" printed in large letters made a statement for the streetwear, which included?hoodies, oversize sleeves that brought shirt cuffs over the hands and a judicious use of denim. This gave a sporty energy to the Blindness collection.?KYE: SNAKES AND SPARKLESIs it the Year of the Snake for Kye? Patterns and prints for both sexes appeared in this spring/summer 2016 show at?Seoul Fashion Week.Kye, Spring/Summer 2016Picture credit: Suzy Menkes InstagramWomen's looks included sparkly tinsel as a contrast to the more aggressive effects. With the snake patterns mostly on the masculine side, the Kye collection showed the subtle differences between the sexes in a way that looked urban and cool.Since South Korea is a country of modernist calligraphy, I thought it was smart to see decorative writing in the Kye collection - even if the word "Hate" was?embroidered on sweatshirts to give an edge to the collection, worn by models with plenty of attitude.Kye, Spring/Summer 2016Picture credit: Suzy Menkes InstagramBut in spite of Kathleen Kye's claim, her premise that everyone "loves to hate their friends" was not mirrored in the stylish clothes - for both sexes.“中性”一代 - 首尔的时尚信息“中性”一代 - 首尔的时尚信息“中性”一代 - 首尔的时尚信息“中性”一代 - 首尔的时尚信息“中性”一代 - 首尔的时尚信息#SuzySFW: Generation ‘Gender Neutral’- Seoul’s Fashion Message#SuzySFW: Generation ‘Gender Neutral’- Seoul’s Fashion Message#SuzySFW: Generation ‘Gender Neutral’- Seoul’s Fashion Message#SuzySFW: Generation ‘Gender Neutral’- Seoul’s Fashion Message#SuzySFW: Generation ‘Gender Neutral’- Seoul’s Fashion Message推荐文章VOGUE